Newcastle to Hawick Walk #1

Introduction & Day 1: Newcastle to Whittle Dene Reservoir (17 miles)

June 2026

My last long walk in the UK was in September 2024, when I hiked 220 miles from Nottingham to Newcastle. Since then, I’ve nurtured the idea of connecting Land’s End to John o’ Groats in several long stages, with the twist of heading both north and south from Nottingham — so I’ll have the fun of finishing twice, first in Caithness and again in Cornwall!

With this goal in mind, I set off last Monday from Newcastle’s Monument with a full pack, aiming to reach Glasgow (about 180 miles). In the event, I only made it halfway to Hawick in the Scottish Borders, but that gives me the opportunity to reflect on this fascinating stage of the journey, which, in part, followed the route of the former Border Counties Railway.

Camping on the Border Counties Railway in the Scottish Borders

Planning

I enjoy route-planning as much as hiking, and this summer was all about connecting Newcastle with Glasgow, so I can hook up with the West Highland Way next year. The first 60 miles were straightforward: follow the Hadrian’s Wall Path east towards Chollerford, then turn right at Heavenfield, tracing the North Tyne up to Kielder Reservoir, mostly following the River Tyne Trail.

After Kielder, my journey would become more remote and uncertain. The OS map shows the track of a dismantled railway snaking north from Kielder, past places with ominous-sounding names like Deadwater, Windy Knowe and Saughtree. But despite extensive online searching, I couldn’t determine whether the dismantled Border Counties Railway was passable on foot. The stakes were high: nearly ten miles through a dense forestry plantation, so if blocked, it would mean turning back and a very long road walk.

My 85-mile route from Newcastle to Howick

Day 1: Newcastle to Whittle Dene Reservoir (17 miles) + 2 miles from home

After saying goodbye to Tracy, which is always a wrench, I arrived in the Centre of Newcastle at 9.15 am on Monday morning to start my walk. Early-morning shoppers were airing their summer dresses in the warm breeze. Earl Grey looked down at me from a blue sky, a pigeon perched on his head.

I had flashbacks to September 2024, when I triumphantly padded up Grey Street to the Monument, serenaded by a busker playing Piano Man, before celebrating with cocktails with Tracy at the Grey Owl. But two years had passed since then, during which time I’d both suffered and partially recovered from a back injury. I felt excited to be on my way, but I was also cautious about the strain that carrying a heavy pack would place on my back.

Setting off from Newcastle

As I walked up the River Tyne under the many bridges, I entertained myself by ticking off the birds nesting on the Tyne Bridge, circling overhead and wading through the mudbanks: Kittiwake, Black-Headed Gull, Oystercatcher, Shelduck, Lapwing, Curlew, Little Egret, Swallow. Each new species gave me a buzz and seemed to lighten my load.

Habitat for wading birds at Lemington on the River Tyne

Rather than follow the more direct Hadrian’s Wall Path through Lemington, I meandered around a loop of the river at Newburn Haugh, before stopping for lunch at the friendly ‘Elsie’s Cafe’.

There, a talkative dog-walker regaled me with stories of famous people he met whilst working as a chauffeur for the rich and famous. Not all of his clients got a positive review, and some had disgraceful behaviour in the eyes of this septuagenarian, but his warmest words were reserved for the late Mo Mowlan, who always ensured her chauffeurs were catered for and had somewhere to stay. I suggested that he write a book about his life, but he replied, ‘I think that would land me in a spot of bother!’

That afternoon, as I continued along the flower-strewn north bank of the river to Wylam, my pace slowed as the temperature increased. Just after passing a pockmarked sandbank, home to a colony of acrobatic martins, I found a rare place where the bank dropped down to water level, offering an opportunity to swim. Entrance to the water was a little muddy, but worth the effort for refreshment in the cool waters gushing from Kielder, two days ahead.

Flower-strewn back of the River Tyne east of Wylam

Wylan or Hagg Bank Railway Bridge

At Wylam, I cross over the elegant rib arch railway bridge to follow the south bank known as ‘The Spetchells’ or ‘white hills’, so called because of the millions of tons of chalk dumped there by an ICI factory during World War Two. Ironically, this industrial waste has created the largest habitat for chalk-loving wild flowers in Northumberland. I was too tired by that stage in the afternoon to stop and identify the unusual flower species, but I did hear my first Whitethroat of the trip singing in the meadow.

At Ovingham, I crossed back to the north side of the river and explored Whittle Dene, which flows from Whittle Dene Reservoir on the Military Road (B6318) down to the Tyne. The north end of this hidden woodland is now bisected by the A69, but your imagination can still run wild here, imagining a land of fairies, toadstools and trolls. Hidden deep in the woods are tiny huts with small tended gardens and smoking chimneys. I’ve no idea who lives here, but Tracy and I first discovered this place 30 years ago, and it hasn’t changed a bit. I saw my first and only Jay of the trip here, a flash of electric blue swooping between trees, while a pair of Yellowhammers sang to each other from the bushes.

The magical Whittle Dene near Ovingham

Forest gave way to farmland, and as the evening wore on, I grew increasingly anxious about where I’d camp, sandwiched, as I was, between the A69 to the south and Military Road to the north. Eventually, about 17 miles from Newcastle, I found a small patch of grass beside a footpath adjacent to Whittle Dene Reservoir. The soil was heavily compacted, so it was difficult to secure the tent pegs, but it was a sheltered spot, so there was little danger of my tent blowing away. Being next to the water, I was more concerned about midges, so I applied ‘Smidge’ before cooking my first dinner on a conveniently positioned stone wall overlooking the lake.

As I ate, I watched a Grey Heron statued in the reeds, waiting patiently for its supper.

Just as I was cooking, a farm vehicle approached down the track, engine revving. As he slowed, I gave the driver my best smile and cheery wave, ‘Hello, I hope you don’t mind me stopping here, I’m walking from Newcastle to Glasgow and cooking my dinner… I also have a small tent off the path.’ To my relief, he replied that he didn’t mind at all and was just using this path as a shortcut to reach the main road. ‘Enjoy your night,’ he said, driving into the sunset.

Camp by Whittle Dene Reservoir at the end of Day 1

The site turned out to be one of the best of the trip, because after dinner, as I watched the sun setting over fields to the north, a pair of Barn Owls emerged from the tree line to hunt.

It was an excellent first day.

Sunset

A more detailed look at my route for Day 1:

To be continued…